Trip Summary

Sunday, May 29, 2021

Before sunrise on Sunday morning, a group of West Valley Vikings met at Terminal 3 at San Francisco International Airport (SFO) – eager and excited to depart on time for a scheduled 7:30 AM flight. Our fearless leaders Chris Cruz and Molly Schrey did their head counts, handed out trip t-shirts, and ensured everyone completed the proper health document before we all headed through security.

A 4-hour flight to Houston, followed by a 3-hour layover, then a 7-hour flight later, our weary group arrived at the Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima, Peru. After trudging through Customs and collecting our checked-in luggages, we were greeted by our tour director Francisco (aka Frank). The group fought sleep on the charter bus ride to the hotel, as Frank introduced us to his beautiful country with facts and shared the first day's itinerary with us.

It was nearly 12:30 AM upon our arrival to El Tambo; and nearly 1:00 AM by the time we made it to our assigned rooms. After the long day of travel, the hotel beds were quite a site for sore eyes. A few of us noticed that Peruvian drivers were pretty generous with their car horns as we were falling asleep that first night.

Monday, May 30, 2022

Breakfast was ready and waiting for us in the lobby at 8:30 AM on Monday morning. Francisco had informed us that there were over 4,000 varieties of potatoes in Peru – we were exited to try them all, not prepared for the life-changing experience. The breakfast potatoes were nothing like the complimentary breakfasts offered by big hotel chains in the United States. These potatoes had the perfect balance of crispy texture and savory flavor, which complemented the non-soggy and equally delicious scrambled eggs. Additionally, the cut fruit tasted freshly sweet and juice tasted pure, not from concentrate.

With rested bodies and full stomachs, we left the hotel to embark on a walking tour around the city of Lima around 9:30 AM. As we made our way to our first stop at the currency exchange store, our eyes feasted on countless pieces of art the sides of the many buildings; we stopped frequently to snap photos from multiple angles.

Past the high risers in the skyline, we could see the Pacific Ocean. While we took in the view of the coastline and the Laromar outdoor mall, Francisco shared anecdotes about the city's surf culture and seized the opportunity to get to know us better through a game of "Two Truths and a Lie".

Before arriving at Parque del Amor (Lovers Park), we stopped at a bridge that had a troubled history. A standard presidential term in Peru is five years; there is no limit on how many times one can hold office, as long as the terms are not consecutive. The history of Peruvian presidents has been tumultuous, with the last several ending up in prison or dead. The impact of their actions continue to cripple the country's economy, causing people to strike, and unfortunately, in other cases, commit suicide by jumping off that bridge.

As we approached the park, it was difficult to miss the monumental couple entangled in an embrace. Around the perimeter were mosaics of love quote written in Spanish. With the backdrop of the ocean, it is understandable why Valentine's Day is the most popular day at the park. There were even love locks, where couple can leave a symbol of their relationship with a padlock on a fence.

Our next stop was the Parque John F. Kennedy in the midst of bustling city life. It was a little odd that the park was named after an American president, but Francisco enlightened us that Lima is a sister park of Boston – the city from which Kennedy originated. We were all taken aback by the bold flowers, but more so the number of friendly stray cats lounging and sunbathing.

Some time ago, there was a nun that accepted abandoned animals and cared for them. The word spread a little too well, as she became overwhelmed with the influx and could no longer accept new animals. Despite this history, if an individuals is caught abandoning animals in the park, then they will be subjected to a fine. A colorful kiosk allows individuals to donate money and/or adopt (off-site).

For lunch, we were allowed to explore on our own for the first time. We were able to enjoy lomo saltado and ceviche at the recommended restaurants: Cafe La Paz and Cafe Cafe. The portions were larger than expected, but there were no leftovers. To aid digestion of the delicious meal, we walked back to JFK park to the meeting point, and took pictures with the bull statue along the way.

When we boarded the bus, we were greeted by Natalia, our local guide for the remainder of the day. Making our way through the traffic, she pointed out huacas, sacred Incan sites – many of which still being excavated.

As we walked through an old town, Natalia enlightened us to some of the remaining Spanish influences. The first residual influence was evident in the balconies – which were obsure enough for people inside to look out, but not the other way around - perfect for women to check out men from a distance and gossip with each other. Another display included a lady in a big dress, with the face fully covered, except for one eye.

At the Basílica y Convento de San Francisco de Lima, we continued our historical journey by touring the building and visiting the catacombs underground. We walked through a complex network of room that contained the remains of more than 25,000 humans. Skulls and femur bones were the majority of the bones we observed; these parts survived since they are the sturdiest bones, while the other bones turned to dust over time. (For obvious reasons, photos were not allowed at this location.)

Before entering the Larco Museum, we spent time appreciating the plants and landscaping around the entrance.

We saw first-hand archaelogical artifacts from the pre-Columbian era, as well as many silver and gold items. Notably, we learned about the significance of condors, pumas, and snakes from a cultural perspective. The three animals are connected to the three worlds belonging to gods, humans, and the dead, respectively. It is interesting to point out that these animals are represented in other cultures as well, like the Incans, the Mayans, and even in Asian cultures – it can be argued that the mythological dragon can be perceived as a combination of the three sacred animals. We took note of the repeating motif as we explored the remainder of the musuem.

Our epic first day concluded with dinner at Jaya Brew Company, where we consumed chica morada, a traditional corn drink, along with lomo saltado.

Tuesday, May 31, 2022

The group met 5:00 AM and headed to the airport by bus. Chris informed us that, unfortunately, he would not be joining us due to some health issues. After listening to Chris read a sentimental note he wrote on the flight, we said our goodbyes and were on our way.

There was less traffic than the day before, which allowed us to arrive on time for our flight to Cuzco. Going through security was much quicker, compared to home – travelers are able to keep shoes on and carry liquids without limits. Upon arrival, there was an earthquake drill as travelers waited to pick up luggage. Due to the common occurance of earthquakes, the government has taken precautions to ensure preparation by scheduling these drills.

Driving through the city of Cuzco, the atmosphere and vibe was noticeably different than Lima. The market itself was an experience like no other – vendors packed the sides of narrow streets, as stray dogs and cars made their way. Upon entering San Pedro Market, our senses were once again overwhelmed with the building dedicated to shopping. Francisco led us to a aisle full of bagged pastries and introduced us to pan chuta before purchasing one and (literally) broke bread with us.

Before heading to the en la plaza, we were warned to not interact with the ladies carrying the baby llamas; sources say that the babies are not treated well, taken out for long hours (8:00 AM - 10:00 PM) with minimal food. Those who are naive enough to pose with them are often asked for tips in exchange. We observed from afar, but were careful not to make eye contact. (We were also promised that we would go see more llamas later for free!)

After some exploration and shopping, we walked to La Quinta for lunch. Since Cuzco was Francisco's hometown, his girlfriend and daughter were able to join us for tequeños (fried cheese), lomo saltado, and strawberry ice cream. It started raining as we made our way to the bus we boarded towards Aguas Calientes.

But first, we stopped at "Llama Land" in Chinchero. As we walked past the gate, we were greeted by llamas and alpacas chewing away on hay. (By the way, do you know the difference between llamas and alpacas? Hint: llamas are taller, while alpacas are shorter and woolier.) Nearby, there was an establishment built for cuy, guinea pigs; they were cute, but it was bittersweet seeing them since they are pets for three months, then become food.

We huddled in a circle with coca tea, which helped warm up our bodies and alleviate any altitude sickness, as the demonstration started. Our host stated that wool is naturally greasy and dirty, so it must cleaned with a natural soap (that coincidentally prevents hair loss and gray hair). The color comes from dyes that are made from natural sources, such as insects (like beetles) and plants (like lupine). The wool then gets steeped in hot water with the dye; the length of time differs depending on the color and dye type. When it comes to weaving, the ladies remember the weaving patterns from song, which passed from mother to daughter through generations. Young girls begin learning this process as early as the age of 7.

As we continued on our route, we passed through Valle Sagrado (the Sacred Valley) for a quiet moment of reflection and admiration.

One more stop before arriving our final destination: Seminario Ceramics Studio – where we toured the exhibits and gift shop.

The sun had already set by the time we arrived at Ollantaytambo Lodge Hotel to drop off our bags for the evening.

There had been some rumors that we would have the opportunity to try llama meat during the trip, but we were unsure when or what too expect. Well, this was the time! Some of us enjoyed the gamey-tasting meat more than others, but most of the group can check it off the bucket list. After dinner, Francisco provided details for our excursion to Machu Picchu the next day. We were directed to pack an overnight bag, since we would be leaving our large luggages at this hotel.

Wednesday, June 1, 2022

We ate breakfast at 7:00 AM and power-walked to the train station at 7:30 AM to catch our train to Aguas Calientes. The generous windows on the train made the one hour and forty-five minute ride pass by quickly and allowed us to enjoy the amazing natural landscapes. Once we got off the train, we walked straight to to Hatun Samay hotel to drop off our overnight bags. We were given a little exploration time to grab a quick bite (and maybe do some quick shopping). A small number of us made the mistake of ordering from a sit-down restaurant, which took to an extra long time to prepare the food. Due to time constraints, we paid the restaurant in advance and made plans to come back at the end of the day.

It was almost noon by the time we arrived at the bus stop to ascend the mountain. With no scheduled times or assigned seating, each bus closed its doors when the all the seats were filled. As we waited for the next available bus to accommodate the whole group, we munched on last-minute snacks purchased from the convenience stores located alongside the road where the bus line was forming. Snacks were decently priced, but ponchos got as expensive as $35 (that's in American dollars!).

After hiking up to the viewpoint for photos, the group was divided into two smaller groups as we delved deeper into the history of the Incan citadel. The Incan Empire existed between 1100-1500, and in its prime encompassed Bolivia, Chile, Ecuador, as well as parts of Argentina and Colombia. Only 400-500 people – the elite and their children – lived at this location. The altitude proved advantageous to the Incans, as they deemed how Aguas Calientes dangerous due to its tendency to flood when the rain caused the river levels to rise.

The iconic terraces of Machu Picchu served agricultural purposes – each level had different ecological elements that enabled agricultural variety and experimentation. The sun also played an integral part in construction: temples, along with windows and doors, were orientated to align with the sun during the solstices – June 21 and December 22.

Only one house had a bathroom, so individuals do their business outside. Because the Incans consumed natural and unprocessed foods back then, their waste did not damage the ecosystem. Each person would perform a community role (for example, construction) for a month, then change the next month. This ensured that everyone had the opportunity to build similar skills. In addition to tending crops, the indigenous people also farmed llamas and cows for food. High altitude and cold weather helped preserve food freshness in storage houses.

Despite the lecture on our three-hour tour, our guide Guido said that not everything about Machu Picchu is known – in fact the story is still being written. As our time together ended, he told us that there was no Quechua word for "goodbye" – in its place, one could say añay as a "thank you" or Tupananchiskama, meaning "until we meet again." Most of us were sure that we would be making a return trip soon.

By 5:00 PM, we made it back to the hotel to collect our bags and check into our rooms. Dinner was a still a couple hours aways, so we had a little free time to explore the town. A few of us went back to collect the food we had paid for earlier in the day. (Since food consumption was not allowed at Machu Picchu, the wait for dinner seemed longer than normal.)

We crossed the Urubamba River for dinner at Julian Restaurant, which included pumpkin soup, chicken pesto pasta, and vanilla ice cream. We were pleasantly surprised by the live music performance performed by the group Wayna Picchu.

Thursday, June 2, 2022

After breakfast at 7:30 AM, the group walked to the train station at 8:00 AM. A one hour and forty-five minute train ride on Peru Rail later, we were back in Cuzco and greeted by our bus driver, who had so kindly collected the luggages we had left behind the day before.

Our next history lesson took place at Ollantaytambo, a village in the Sacred Valley. Unlike Macchu Picchu, people still lived there until the government took over control in the 1980's. In fact, our guide, Yony, used to live there. She pointed out the multiple watch towers and recounted how flutes were used for alerts; different songs signified different alert levels. Similar to Machu Picchu, the inhabitants here used store houses as fridges, to primarily for food, but also weapons. One of the easier plants to grow was potato, which were shaped into small stones before being stepped on and stored. At high altitude, potatoes would freeze at night with no issue. A similar process applied to maiz, which was also dried before being stored. This stored food had an average shelf life of 3-5 years, and a maximum life of 18 years! We learned that there is a superstition about not eating chicken on the winter solstice (June 21) to avoid bad luck.

Yony described the high-maintenance king, who rarely walked or showed his face in public. As part of a bigger plan, this allowed him to walk freely as farmer, take notice of issues, and make changes based on observations. The stone used in their structures comes from a distant mountain, so the people leverage gravity to roll the pieces downhill; they even diverted the river to ease transport. Rollers and human power were also utilized; even women with babies on back would help out.

For a change of pace, we stopped for lunch at Restaurante Tunupa, which offered Peruvian foods in a buffet format. Aside from the amazing quality and variety of the food, the restaurant offered live pan flute performance, as well as a gorgeous backdrop with access to the Urubamba River.

Our next stop was Manos de Plata, a silversmith shop where we were treated to a demonstration of their techniques before being set loose to go shopping. (A great amount of silver came back to the States with the group.)

Before dinner, we dropped off our luggages in our assigned rooms at the Warari Hotel.

While cuy is traditionally saved for special occasions, an exception was made for dinner that night. The taste was a little gamey, and the roasted skin was a bit reminiscent of roasted pork. Another exotic meat checked off the list!

Friday, June 3, 2022

With a long day of travel ahead, the group had breakfast at 6:45 AM, dropped luggage at 7:15 AM, and were ready to hit the road by 7:30 AM. Our drivers Wilbur and Rey greeted us and helped with our luggages.

Before embarking, we picked up some pan chuta, as well as learned about caseras, frequent vendors, and their special relationship. In a mostly digital world, there is still human contact at the market. Vendors use yapa, an extra something, to reward frequent buyers. Relationships are forged and fostered as a way to encourage customers to come back.

On the road, we learned that bulls on top of houses symbolize protection, prosperity, and duality (man/woman). Tradition notes that bulls must be presented as a pair from godparents; individuals do not buy these bulls for themselves. Incans and Quechua people originally placed two figurines of llamas or alpacas with alpaca fat and chicha; the Spaniards replaced the animals with bulls and added a cross to display their Catholic affiliations. This is an example of co-existing cultural ideas.

Three hours away, we stopped at the archaeological site of Raqchi, where Francisco was graced us with a guided tour. The channels and aqueducts guaranteed that there consistent water year round. Structures were primarily built from mortar and volcanic stone (sourced by the volcanoes in the Ring of Fire). Unlike Machu Picchu and Ollantaytambo, this complex was surrounded by walls. When the Spaniards arrived with their religion, their king ordered the destruction and replacement of all traces of other cultures, including god symbols

Quechua people utilized pillars and columns, as well as stronger stones are brought from other valley for sturdy support. To prevent toppling, lighter materials, such as mud bricks and adobe, were used at the top. The walls measured 12 meters high (38 feet) and were plastered with mud – this allowed the walls move 12-16 degrees during earthquakes. The trapezoid shape is notable for being more stable.

Warehouses called colcas were used to store food produced in the valley. Seeds and grains were preserved in vessels, while mint was utilized as a natural insecticide. The fish supply is rich, thanks to the Niño current that helps maintain the cold water temperature. Without currency, inhabitants instead use bartering - a simple system, but it works.

Another day, another lunch buffet on the road. This time at a smaller location with slightly less options, but still satisfying nonetheless.

Along the way, Francisco pointed out where vet students from National University of San Antonio perform their training. Students share their research findings with locals via the local news.

Another bathroom (and shopping) stop at La Raya, the border between Cuzco and Puno – at over 14,0000 feet elevation.

Our next stop was the origin city of the Toritos de Pucará.

This specific location must be a common rest stop, based on the layout and number of nongendered stalls. Having fresh air was a pleasant surprise, along with the sheep just hanging out.

We could tell we were getting closer to Puno when we saw familiar city sights, like vehicles and buildings.

Due to the narrow nature of the streets, our bus had to park a couple blocks away from the hotel, while our group walked over. The hotel staff were kind enough to pick up and deliver our luggages in the lobby.

After checking out our assigned rooms, a few of us wandered over to the Puno Plaza, being drawn to the music and festivities.

When we returned to the Casona Plaza Hotel for dinner, we are warmly introduced to Edgar, who provided an overview of our itinerary for the next couple of days. We were directed to pack as light as possible, just enough clothes for two nights. He mentioned that the families have been struggling for a while with the downturn of tourism and expressed our appreciation for willingness to accept the project, commenting that we were "not a normal group" – we accepted this as a badge of honor.

Following dinner, a few group members walked to the local market Plaza Vea to purchase staple items for the families, including vegetable oil, rice, milk, sugar, tuna, cooking oil. The market was a interesting juxtaposition to all the history we had consumed during the week, like we had traveled through time.

Saturday, June 4, 2022

As Edgar promised, we were greeted by limousines to transport us to the marina.

While we were waiting by the dock, Edgar provided shared a small anecdote about Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake at 3,800 meters above sea level. At one point, people were dissembling boats to move them through Andes Mountains. The estimated transport time was six months, but it actually took six years; by which time, the railroads were already complete. Titicaca

When the English discovered alpaca wool, it was discovering white gold. In exchange, the English contributed bowler hats (popularized by Charlie Chaplin), which the Peruvian women adopted and made their own.

The ecology of the lake has changed dramatically over time. Once valued specialized skills, such as basket weaving and fishing, became obsolete as fishing became more accessible, which introduced the problem of overfishing. Non-native species of fish have been introduced into the lake; without competitors, they grew in size and got out of control. Traditionally, Coelacanth fish (also known as "living fossils" since they develop a hard shell around their bodies) have recently shrunk in size due to altitude. In fact, two out of the seven native types of fish from the lake are extinct. Edgar pointed out that birds evolve to eat specific fish, and if that type of fish becomes unavailable, then the associated birds decline as well. To make the situation worse, birds often get hunted and inadvertently trapped in fishing nets. Recently, national parks have begun initiatives to protect the endangered Titicaca grebe. As a result, many fishing nets were not extended on the tour boat paths. Our group was lucky enough to catch a glimpse of several grebes running on top of the water during our boat ride.

Once we boarded the boat and left shore, Edgar shared how the lake was sacred to the Incan people, as it was their primary life resource. History a drought that pushed the royal court migration to the lake, looking for the promised land, which eventually became the beginning of the Incan Empire in Cuzco. Coincidentally, Cuzco always has fertile soil and water, sourced by glaciers. As legend has it, the Creator first created water, which became the cradle, or pacarina, of which the mountains, trees, animals, and humans were created. Unfortunately, the humans became corrupted by bad spirits who told to go to high mountain, which was forbidden. The gods become angry and punished them by sending pumas from underground. The world was obscured by clouds for 3.5 days, then everything is destroyed via flood known as Unu Pachakuti - land transformer, world changer. Only one man and woman survived on boat in lake of tears among puma corpses, whose stomachs bloated and eventually turned to stone. This is where the lake gets its namesake, as titi means puma or cat of the mountain and caca means stone.

This flood is consistent with legends from other cultures that tell of a great water catastrophe, and there is sediment from 13,000 years ago to corroborates this theory. Edgar mentions that reputable shaman friend of his predicts that the next Pachakuti is already here – due to the accelerated C)2 levels created by humans, and ice age is imminent. There is no need to worry though, as Andean prophecy assures that the Pachakuti will aid regeneration, as Pachamama, or Mother Nature, never destroys. However, it will be dark for a while - as the saying goes, it is darkest before dawn.

The Amazonean and Andean people of the Uros Islands are part of the oldest ethnic group in South America. El Niño pushed the migrants towards the lake, but the lack of resources caused war to erupt. As a result, some groups made the executive decision to stay in the water, where it was relatively safer. Tired from war, the Uros people cut reeds to make habitable boats. Before tourism, nearly 2,000 Uros people lived on islands made from reed, which covers 40% of the lake.

On the floating island we visited, President Adolfo introduced us to his island, which was home to five families, a total of 22 people. Edgar explained to us that due to the altitude, their bodies have evolved to develop more red blood cells, as well as shorter legs, and bigger thoracic box – all to carry oxygen more efficiently.

When the Spaniards come looking only for gold and silver, they had no interest for farming. Their primary goal was to baptize as many members as possible into their church, as all member were obligated to pay taxes. To justify extermination of those unwilling to join, Spaniards accused natives of being "uncivilized" due to how they ate uncooked fish. The truth was that the natives ate raw fish to avoid the Spaniards seeing the smoke from their fires.

The trauma remains, as evident in the fear of seeing white tourists, as recently as two years ago. Edgar recalls a research project from 25 years ago where he attempted to learn more about the Uros people. The first time he visited, his questions were rejected by an elder member, who was wary about his inquiries. Since they were illiterate, they were cautious about signing papers and other binding procedures. When asked why they choose to live on the floating islands, one person responded, "This is the only way of life I know. This is my island. My mom died here, and I will too." Everything they need is provided by the lake, while life in the city requires a lot of money to sustain. Young people do not have sufficient resources to move to the mainland. However, the scarcity of fishing and hunting has pushed people to the canal to join their brothers in tourism.

President Adolfo informed us that creating a floating island takes five minutes to explain, but five years to build. The foundation is comprised of reed roots, 2.5–3 meters under water. Dry roots are buoyant like cork. For context, the island we were visiting was made from 10 blocks. The next step is to lay reeds on top of the blocks. It is important to compact the reeds, which is why island inhabitants often play soccer and volleyball on the surface. Records show that native Uros inhabitants tend to develop arthritis and rheumatism after moving onto solid land, since their articulation points are not accustomed to the impact of concrete ground. We were surprised to learn that the islands were perpetually moving, so it was crucial that the anchors be frequently adjusted. In fact, Edgar recounted to us a time when gusty winds caused an island to float away toward Bolivia and had to be rescued by military forces.

Main activities on the island included fishing, hunting, and crafting – women do embroidery, while men work with reeds. Another important activity is island maintenance. The island needs to be refreshed 1-2 times per month during the dry season; and 3 times per month during the wet season. The process requires lifting the houses to replace the top reed layers, as the inside reeds are continually rotting.

During a quick boat ride around the island, Adolfo informed us that the reed called totora is essential to the Uros people, since it is the primary building material for their islands, homes, and boats. (Fun fact: Boats take 1 month to make with the labor of 5 people.) Adolfo demonstrated the tool used to harvest reeds and showed us that totora is edible, and can be used to cool down fevers and alleviate headaches as well. The reed flower can be made into a tea that helps with stomach issues.

Upon arriving at Luquina, we were greeted by our families and escorted to their homes for a traditional lunch before starting on our service project.

Our family included Mama Santusa, Papa Jorge, daughter Sulma (14), and son Julio (18). The rooms were spacious and more modern than expected. Our first meal started with a warm vegetable soup, and followed by the best fried chicken, which tasted the right amount of crispy without being too greasy. Over lunch, we learned Mama Santusa grew lots of the vegetables in her garden, including potatoes, barley and quinoa. Some of the animals we observed on the property were cows, sheep, pigs, and chickens. Twice a month, she visits the market in Acora, which cost half the price to get to Puno. Sulma walks one hour to school every day with her friends, while her older brother Julio is in prep school and interested in majoring in Engineering.

After lunch (and a quick nap), we grabbed out our pickaxes and headed over to the worksite where we would start our service project. Before we started working, we honored the tradition of asking for protection and blessing – everyone participated in the ceremony, which included dipping 3 coca leaves into chicha, or beer. According to the town judge, there was a lonely house spirit at our work site, and he hoped this offering would help remediate that.

To start the project, we needed to first prepare the area and gather materials. First, we were all assigned to collecting rocks from the hillside. Then, some of us were reassigned to carrying gravel from the pile at the top of the hill, while other cleared the grass from the path. Although we only worked for approximately two hours on the first day, the altitude made the trip uphill a little more strenuous. Coming downhill though, the view of Lake Titicaca was a refreshing and energizing site.

Since there was minimal air pollution, a few of us seized the opportunity to peek at the stars. We heard lively music and tracked it to the local school, where we observed a farewell dance with another tourist group. After dinner that night, we heard heavy winds, followed by dogs barking and celebrity donkey braying. Soon after, there was rain and lightening, even some reports of hail. We were worried it would affect the worksite, but everything cleared up by morning.

Sunday, June 5, 2022

We started our second day in Luquina with a breakfast of lightly fried quinoa bread and a hardboiled egg before heading over to continue our project.

At the worksite, the path still needed to be compacted. While the experienced pickaxe-users cleared another chunk of the path, other group members continued gathering rocks, while the locals collected water and prepared the cement mixer. Once there mixer was ready, a dedicated crew was tasked with "feeding the beast" by shoveling gravel to mix the cement. Another small crew used wheelbarrows to deliver the freshly mixed cement to the pending path. Although we worked longer hours, the day went by quick, and we were done with our portion of the path by noontime.

When we returned home for lunch, we were treated with delicious fried trout from the lake.

After a quick siesta, it was time to get ready for the Fiesta de Comida. Santusa brought traditional garb and dressed us individually. The ladies were adorned with three layers of skirt, along with a sash, bolero hat, and pom poms; meanwhile, the gentlemen wore pink ponchos with satchel purses.

After hiking about 30 minutes up the road, we arrived at the party, which was located between a cemetery and a church. While we waited for all the families to arrive, Edgar joked that we were in limbo between the land of the living and the dead, so to not get stuck, he recommended that we should come dance. We followed the lead of other partygoers, who were dancing in circles around crates of beer. We each got our own plastic cup, which we filled with the bottle making its way around the circle.

Edgar felt optimistic about the number of locals returning to the community after leaving to distant locations for work. It was fun to see our host families enjoying themselves, knowing how hard they work on a daily basis. We were surprised to see Sulma and grandmother join us for dinner, as Santusa and Jorge were still at the party. We were so incredibly lucky to be have been able to experience the party during our visit, as the next party is not scheduled until August.

Monday, June 6, 2022

On our third and final day, we made sure to savor our last meal – homemade cheese and potatoes. Before heading to the boat, we stopped by the school to hand out some school supplies to the children. It was bittersweet as we said our final farewells and left Luquina.

After say goodbye to Luquina, we hopped on our motor boat and headed towards the island of Taquile Island –  a UNESCO world heritage site on an isolated island that used to only be accessible via row boats and locals. National Geographic has referred to Taquile as a place "where time stood still". Before market integration, the inhabitants were self-sufficient and would only leave twice a year to obtain salt and metals.

The native people of Taquile are descendents of Aymaras, a pre-Incan group. Their Spanish influence can be seen in their attire – the men wear white shirts with black vests (similar to pirates), while women wear Spanish skirts. Natural detergent for shampoo, no white hair or baldness.

In this town, men are skilled knitters, while women are weavers. Their clothes serve as an indication of one's religion and profession. Community responsibilities begin as early as age five, when children get farming instruments as toys. A man interested in marriage must weave a hat to demonstrate that it is waterproof enough to hold water to and from a well, while the intended partner's family judges. In addition to status, hats also communicate emotion – hanging to the left denotes happiness, while the right denotes concern. Interestingly, rainbow hats are a sign of authority. Married individuals were allowed to consume alcohol and coca, while single ladies tend to wear brighter colors.

Single people would find their spouses at parties, like the one we attended in Luquina. Shy men would use mirrors to reflect light, as well as throw little stones, towards the objects of their affection. Men would steal the black material from ladies' hats and run away. If the lady is interested, then she would follow him and initiate a trial marriages, typically with kids and farm. Divorce does not exist in this culture, only separation. While they are technically Catholic, most do not fully understand all the traditions. For weddings, they will perform their native traditions before church traditions. To prevent temptation and confusion during the wedding ceremony, the bride and groom are solemn; in fact, they do not drink or eat without help from their godfather.

After picking up some tapestry items from their market, our group followed the trail along the coast of the island to our pickup location. We concluded the breathtaking hike with a reflection on the beach before hopping back on the boat.

Not everyone can say they had a kayaking adventure on the highest navigable lake in the world, but our group can! Following that experience, the Llachon locals cooked an underground meal for us.

Before heading back to the mainland, Daniel swore in Frank as a Junior Ranger.

Back at the hotel, we were surprised with some changes to the itinerary. The original plan for our last day included a one-hour auto ride to the airport in Juliaca. Unfortunately, our tour director was informed that the runway renovations were not yet complete, only a couple days before our scheduled departure. Fortunately, our resourceful Francisco had developed a contingency plan – drive six hours east to the airport in Arequipa, with some scenic stops along the way. Despite the news, we salvaged the remainder of the night by pranking Francisco with a fake birthday celebration over dinner.

Tuesday, June 7

The next morning, the group gathered for our final breakfast together at 7:30 AM and mentally prepared ourselves for the obligatory COVID tests required to get on the plane to go home. Pachamama must have heard our prayers, as we all passed the test with flying (negative) colors. The military even marched by to celebrate the good news.

On the way out of town, we stopped at the final viewpoint of Puno.

One of our multipurposed stops was for magic tea, bathroom, and shopping. To ensure we stayed on schedule, we put in our lunch orders with Francisco while we were still on the road.

Upon our arrival at the restaurant in Arequipa, our food was ready for weary traveling stomachs.

Everyone was tired, but mostly excited to arrive at the airport.

Wednesday, June 8

By 12:55 AM, we were all ready to board our flight to back to the States. But before we could get on the actual plane, we had to have our carry-on bags searched; some individuals even got their feet swabbed.